Restaurant Review: June

It’s bittersweet to see that the lovely gray wallpaper that once graced the interior of Madrona’s Cremant has come down, making way for June’s similar look of starched sophistication—matte-gray banquettes punched up with grass-green chairs and vaguely nautical lampshades. But as long as chef/owner Vuong Loc keeps that insanely good honey-cured pork chop on his menu forever and ever, amen, I’ll get over it. The impossibly tender, perfectly medium-rare chop ($19) dominates a plate of hand-plucked sweet peas sautéed with country ham in a simple but stunning pan sauce. I also loved the pleasing chewiness of the farro with raisins, green beans and almond butter ($17). Judging by the perfectly roasted chicken with woodsy spring morel mushrooms and fava beans ($18), and the flash-fried marble (purple and white) potatoes with homemade aioli ($4.50), Loc has a knack for turning dinner staples into simple stunners. And unlike Loc’s other restaurant, the date-ready Portage, June gives more than lip service to family friendliness: A three-course family dinner is available for $20 per person (with a minimum of four orders), and kids younger than 8 eat free. Dinner nightly. Madrona, 1423 34th Ave.; 206.323.4000. $$